[Column #02, Part 2] What is the meticulous aesthetic sense that Attractions’ Nishizaki-san is committed to?
What is the aesthetic of perfectionism behind every detail that ATTRACTIONS’ Mr. Nishizaki insists on?
In this column, we delve into the "core" of the brands we carry, interviewing the creators themselves to explore the uniqueness and history behind their work!
In the first part, I was overwhelmed by Mr. Nishizaki’s dedication—from the inspiration behind the birth of BILTBUCK engineer boots to his commitment to continuously improving even his classic items.
"At the end of the day, I want to make our customers happy."
Following that sentiment, we discussed the photo shoots. He explains that he spends a great deal of time on everything from model auditions to test shoots.
Mr. Nishizaki’s worldview, reflected in the details of the photography
Hayashi: I heard you mention it briefly, but do you actually hold auditions for the models featured in the catalogs you produce every time?
Mr. Nishizaki: That’s right. Two months before, we finish the samples, and while we're shooting product photos, we hold auditions in between. I’ll discuss with the stylist, "What kind of model would fit this time..." and we usually audition about 30 people before making a decision.
We also do test shoots before the actual shoot. The models only come on the day of the shoot, but I’ll spend about two days beforehand working on things like the background and lighting. That’s how it’s made, and it keeps getting more elaborate as time goes on (laughs).
Hayashi: I see bicycles and such in the shots as well.
Mr. Nishizaki: Those are all my personal belongings. I ride old bicycles—this one is from 1940s England.
Hayashi: Are these your personal items?
Mr. Nishizaki: Yes, the glasses and the vintage pieces used in the lookbook are all from my personal collection.
Hayashi: It’s amazing how you’ve crafted the worldview of ATTRACTIONS to this extent.
The 0.54mm difference in the buckle pin
What left the deepest impression on me this time was what followed.
From a single comment by Mr. Nishizaki, the conversation turned to the engineer boot buckles.
Mr. Nishizaki: This is something I haven't mentioned, but we changed the pins on the engineer boot buckles.
Hayashi: You changed the pins?
Mr. Nishizaki: I’m currently making a new model of engineer boots. I wanted to create a new one to commemorate our 20th anniversary.
While working on that, I realized, "Wait, the buckle pin thickness is different." I’d been using a 2mm pin all along, but when I looked closer, I realized, "This is actually 2.5mm." When I lined them up, they looked completely different, and I just knew the 2.5mm version was cooler.
But in Japan, the standard sizes available were 2mm and then 3mm. So I wondered, "Why 2.5mm?" and realized it’s likely 0.1 inches. In millimeters, that’s 2.54mm. "Ah, it's 0.1 inches."
When I asked about the production lot size needed to make them, it was incredibly high. The parts supplier even asked, "Are you really going to make these pins?"
When I said, "Use iron," they asked, "Iron?" and gave me a look like, "You're kidding, right?" (laughs)
Even so, I asked them to make them, saying, "I'll take any quantity," and we produced a massive amount. The pins on the boots now are those 2.54mm ones.
Hayashi: Is this sample using those as well?
Mr. Nishizaki: Yes, it has the 2.54mm pins. You can tell the difference between 2mm and 2.54mm just by looking.
Hayashi: If you line them up, they look totally different.
Mr. Nishizaki: You really can't tell unless you line them up.
Hayashi: Are you sure it's okay to write about this? (laughs)
Mr. Nishizaki: It’s fine. If I started writing all of this down, the captions would get way too long and look unattractive, so I usually don't.
Hayashi: I think it’s more fun and interesting to hear these behind-the-scenes stories.
The reason for the upgrades lies in a sharpened sense
Mr. Nishizaki: Our image is rooted in the 50s, so the plating is nickel. For black, it has to be baked-on finish. It wears off over time, which creates character. People often ask, "Can't we use chrome?" but it just doesn't have the same character.
For these Roper buckles, I also created an original sharp D-ring. The ones available in Japan only came in 3mm or 4mm. 4mm was too big, and 3mm felt flimsy and thin. When I look at something and think, "Something is off," it’s usually because the balance is bad.
Hayashi: You notice those things precisely because you’ve studied vintage pieces, don't you?
Mr. Nishizaki: I sense something from the atmosphere, think "something’s different," and then start researching. You have to notice it with your senses first. Without that, you wouldn’t even see it.
Even with these soles, while they are usually made with EVA now, we use expanded rubber.
Expanded rubber is rubber-based, while EVA is resin-based. There is good EVA now, but expanded rubber has better grip and a bit more weight. That’s why we go out of our way to use expanded rubber.
For rubber materials like this, they lack strength unless nylon or polyester is added, but I want to keep the sheen to a minimum. Even when I go to material suppliers, they only show me items with a glossy finish. Old items don’t have that gloss, but they stretch out over time. So I keep pushing, "A little more, a little more." Eventually, I found something knitted on a German machine, and the yarn they use doesn't have much sheen at all.
Hayashi: Going that far... it's incredible.
Mr. Nishizaki: I only talk about it when I'm asked.
Hayashi: And that’s exactly why you are where you are today.
Mr. Nishizaki: It would be disrespectful to sell something I'm not satisfied with. Not once I've noticed it.
Because he has such dedication, even his engineer boots evolve at an incredible speed. Getting to hear so many behind-the-scenes stories that I wouldn't normally get to know helped me once again understand why ATTRACTIONS' philosophy continues to be so clearly expressed in their work.
Mr. Nishizaki, thank you so much for your time!
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